O lenei vaega o lo'o fa'atusaina mai le Dressing Up: Women Influencing French Fashion (MIT Press), na ulua'i lomia e le MIT News Reader ma toe fa'asalalau iinei ma le fa'atagaga.
O loʻo faʻaauauina pea e taʻitaʻi faʻatau oloa a latou taumafaiga ina ua maeʻa le COP26 na valaʻau malosi i le lalolagi e faia se gaioiga i suiga o le tau. Na avea Chloé ma uluai faʻailoga taugata e ausia le "tulaga a le Faalapotopotoga B" ma o lea ua ia faʻamauina lena faʻamaufaʻailoga o le faʻatagaina, e faʻaalia ai lana tautinoga e faʻaitiitia lona aafiaga i luga o tagata ma le paneta e ala i le faaaogaina o malosiaga faafouina ma ethically sourced mea, i le faitau selau o isi fuafuaga s faaleagaina. O le Worn Wear Center i Patagonia e taʻitaʻia le fefaʻatauaʻiga ae o loʻo faʻaaogaina pea lavalava vaega. ” kamupani taugofie ThredUp (faʻavae i le 2009), Poshmark (faʻavaeina i le 2011) ma le RealReal (faʻavaeina i le 2011). Faʻasalalau fefaʻatauaʻiga, e tolu uma e maualuga le tuputupu aʻe, ae e leʻi maualuga tupe maua.
I le taimi lava e tasi, o le au faʻasalalau faʻailoga, ma le WWD aemaise lava, o loʻo tulituliloaina faʻamatalaga taufaasese a faʻatauga taugata e pei o le Faiaoga o gaioiga faʻapea na maua e faʻaumatia ai le tele o ato le atoatoa nai lo le toe faʻaleleia pe toe faʻaaogaina. fa'asiasia i latou, a'o fuaina e le au podcasters le manumalo ma le misi. ogaoga, e ui lava o le a latou feagai ma tulafono faatonutonu sili atu i le US" Na ia taʻua e faapea "o le tausaga lenei o le a toe iloilo e le FTC ana 'lanu meamata' Taiala," lea e faʻamoemoe e fesoasoani i tagata maketi e aloese mai le faia o faʻamatalaga tau le siosiomaga e faʻasesē ai tagata faʻatau."
Fa'atasi ai ma le fa'atupula'ia o le "fa'atauga fa'atatau" ma le "fa'aauauina o le filifilia o oloa", o se taimi talafeagai lenei e va'ai ai pe fa'afefea ona o gatasi nei faiga ma faiga ua mavae. Félix ma le House of Worth) ma a latou tagata fa'atauva'a fa'atauva'a? O le a se mea e mafai ona tatou a'oa'oina mai le tautinoga o le seneturi lona 19 i le toe fa'aaogaina ma le fa'asolo, lelei nai lo le aofa'i?
I le faaiuga o le 19th seneturi, o le faʻatauga Falani o le faʻatauga sili ona taugata mo tamaʻitaʻi Amerika mauoa. latou te faia ma a latou teuga sili ona taua E leai se eseesega. Latou te ofuina le ofu i lona uluai foliga, toe faʻaofuofu, pe faʻafaigaluega le uluai gaosiga poʻo se tagata suʻesuʻe i le lotoifale e toe faʻaleleia. i le aganuu tupu a Europa. E pei ona faamatalaina e le tusitala faasolopito ma le pule o Kate Strastin i totonu o totonu o le Royal Wardrobe: The Dress History of Queen Alexandra, Alexandra, Princess of Wales, na ia suiina Lady Liz ma le kamupani lona ofu faaipoipo na faia i Peretania i se ofu afiafi. Ia Mati 1863, i ni nai aso talu ona uma lana faaipoipoga ia Edward VII. Strastin taʻu mai ia i tatou mo le 1874 Marlborough Ball, e foliga mai na suia e le Kamupani Elise le ofu Alexandra w.Omea i le Waverley Ball i Lonetona i le 1871. O le ofu o loʻo i ai le igoa Elise ma o loʻo faʻasaoina i aso nei i le Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection i le Kensington Palace.
O Mary Endicott Chamberlain sa ofuina le ofu silika lanu moana lanu samasama o le House of Worth ma le lane, beading ma le veveti i ni faamasinoga eseese se lua i Lonetona ia Mati ma Iulai 1893. O le mea muamua na tupu o se taligalu i le potu ata o Queen Victoria i Buckingham Palace, ma o le lona lua o le faaipoipoga a le Duke ma Duchess o Ioka (mulimuli ane King George V ma Queen Mary). Sa masani foi o ia i le toe auina atu o ana ofu Worth i le fale teuteu mo se teuteuga, e pei ona ia faia ina ua ia manao i se Van Dyke lane. kola i luga o se ofu satin mumu.
I le amataga o le 2000s, o tamaitai o le vasega maualuga i Amerika na faʻaaogaina le faʻataʻitaʻiga tautupu mo le toe faʻaaogaina o lavalava. Ina ua faaipoipo Elizabeth Patterson o Baltimore ia Jerome Bonaparte i le 1803, sa ia ofuina se ofu muslin paʻepaʻe lalagaina, lea na ia ofuina i le tele o taimi talu mai lena taimi. Nancy Fowler McCormick ofu Farani. , i le taimi nei i le aoina o le Chicago Historical Society, o loʻo faʻaalia ai faʻailoga o le toe ofuina. Sa ia auai i le tele o faʻasalalauga faʻatasi ma lona toʻalua, le milionea Cyrus Hall McCormick, ma ofuina se ofu Worth i le faaipoipoga a lana tama i le 1904.
O le tele o la'ei fa'apitoa e avea ma measina, e tusia i tusi, ona pule lea i suli e filifili pe fa'apefea ona latou ofuina, pe leai fo'i ni suiga. , ma tulip lane na totoe i lona loto mo le ofu faaipoipo o lo la tina i le pito laulaau. Na mulimuli ane faaaoga e Alva ma lana tama teine o Consulo le lane i o la ofu faaipoipo. E faapena foi, i le 1883, na faatauina ai e le tagata agalelei o Caroline Louisa Williams Farani o Boston, Massachusetts, se lanu moana uliuli. Suti veleveti ma le fulufulu chinchilla ma se igoa Maison Lipman mo le 1,600 francs. O le faʻailoga, faʻatautaia e Madame Camille Lipman, na tamoe i Pale i le 1880s, ma o ana tagata faʻatau e aofia ai Maria Pia, Queen of Portugal. Pe a ma le 37 tausaga mulimuli ane, Alice Williams Pearse , o se tasi e tupuga mai Farani, o loʻo faʻaalia i totonu o se ofu talaloa ma le ato chinchilla, e aunoa ma se peleue, i se mea na tupu e faʻamanatuina ai le Teuteuga Lona sefuluiva, lea O le teuteuga na tuʻuina atu ai i tamaitai le aia tatau e palota ai.New England.Orme Wilson Jr. ma Richard Thornton Wilson III foai atu se faaputuga o ofu talaloa i le Metropolitan Museum of Art e Houses of Worth, Doucet, ma Paquin, ma maua atili ai se vaaiga i le auala na tupu aʻe ai le couture e ala i se lala o le tasi aiga Feel .O le auso o Wilson o atalii o William Buckhouse Astor Jr. ma le afafine o Caroline Astor o Carrie.
Mo mea na tutupu e pei o le Centennial Ball na faia i le salafa o le atunuʻu i le 1876, na faʻatonuina e tamaitai ofu talaloa e faʻatusa i latou na ofuina e o latou tuaa i ata ma ata. ofu.O nisi tamaitai sa faaaogaina vaega mai a latou lava mea tuai na aoina mai i taimi eseese, e pei ona faia e le au Astors, o le na aoina mai le Flemish ma Farani o le 18th seneturi, o nisi na ola mai. I le faaipoipoga a lana tama teine o Helen ia James R. Roosevelt i le 1878, na ofuina ma le mitamita e Caroline Astor se ofu veveti uliuli ma se teuteuga 200 tausaga le matua.
O le isi nofoaga mo le toe faʻaaogaina e ala lea i lapisi mai tagata e ona i a latou teine poʻo tagata e mauaina fesoasoani. Na foaʻi atu e Caroline Astor lavalava i le falemaʻi o tamaʻitaʻi, ae o Cornelia Stewart, o loʻo faaipoipo i le faleoloa AT Stewart, o loʻo taʻua na tuʻuina atu nisi o ona lavalava i se fafine i totonu. mana'omia le Pese pese i le tulaga toniga. E pei ona fa'aalia e Diana de Marley (tusitala o le "History of Haute Couture") ma Kate Strastin, o le fa'ata'ita'iga o se fua o faiga fa'atupu a Europa o le tu'uina atu o le la'ei i tama'ita'i, Queen Victoria ma Alex Fa'apea fo'i le Princess Sandra.Wales.O le isi tafega o le faʻatau atu lea o ofu i tagata faʻatau oloa, e tupuga mai i Europa ua leva ona faʻatautaia fefaʻatauaʻiga i lavalava faʻaoga. .I le senituri lona 19, na faatau atu ai e tagata o le aiga tautupu i nisi o tagata fai meaʻai.
Talu mai le amataga o le 18 seneturi, o Egelani foi ei ai se tala faasolopito o le faatauina atu o ofu tautupu ma le mamalu i luga o fefaʻatauaiga o lavalava tuai i East London, e pei ona auiliiliina e Jennifer Le Zotte i lana tusi From Goodwill to Grunge. fefa'ataua'iga lima i le Lower East Side na fa'aosofia e ala i le taunu'u mai o le aofa'i tele o tagata malaga mai Europa talu ai nei i le va o le 1880 ma le 1920, fa'atautaia e tagata Iutaia ma le poto masani i le fa'atauina ma le su'iina. ona o le au faifa'atau oloa e foliga mai e masani ona fa'asaina le fa'atauina o lavalava i fa'atauga fa'ameaalofa. Na o'o mai i'inei le Anti-Semitism ona o tagata Iutaia na va'aia i le talafaasolopito o le puleaina o fefa'ataua'iga, lea na faia ona o le mana'omia ina ua fa'asa latou mai a latou galuega ma liliu atu i ta'avale ta'avale. fa'atauga.
E maua e le au fai pese le fatufatua'i i le auala e maua mai ai ma taulima teuga taugata. Ina ua maliu le tagata pese opera Emma Abbott i le 1891, na faatau ai e Jeanne Kimball le ofu talaloa Worth ma Félix na ofuina e Abbott i Carmen i ni nai tausaga ua mavae. Na faatauina e Kimmball mo lana tama teine o Corinne, o se ofu maualuga fetu i luga o le tulaga.Ina ua le mafai e Elena o Montenegro ona faʻaaogaina ni ofu fou Félix mo se vaitaimi i le faʻanoanoa mo le tupu Italia o Umberto Na ou fasiotia e anarchists, na muamua tuʻuina e le couturier i latou i le Universal Exhibition i Paris I le faʻaaliga 1900. A o asiasi atu le faaaliga, Francesca Redding faamemelo i le laulaau lanumeamata siliki ma chiffon ofu talaloa, faatau i ai, ma vave tuu i luga o le tulaga.Social tagata tomai faapitoa Mary Rita Wilson-Gollette lapoti, lea na sailia ma le faaeteete i le teuina o aitalafu, na lipotia mai na faatauina atu i Niu Ioka Eves tagata fai fale tifaga ina ua mavae lona maliu ma sa ofuina e le tele o tamaitai fai pese, e tusa ai ma lipoti..Mulimuli ane, na faatau atu e le tamaitai fai pese o Sadie Martinot ana lava ofu talatala Worth ma Félix i le faatautu'i ia Me 1894 mo le $35,000 (sili atu i le $1.1 miliona i aso nei) . Na faatau atu foi e le au fai pese a latou ofu i luga o le tulaga i le au faatau oloa a latou faleoloa, e pei ona faamatalaina e le Sun. i le 1892, "faatasi ai ma sakete, sakete, ma ofu Basque na tautau i le tolu pe fa fogafale loloto".
O tagata fa'atau i faleoloa e lua o ni tama'ita'i vaeluagalemu o latou lavalava o le a tumau mo le tele o tausaga. O Hannah Ditzler Alspaugh o Ilinoi o lo'o tusia i lana api o talaaga ma ana tusi ie o la'ei ma suti na te toe faia pe "saeia" i le tele o tausaga, e aofia ai ma se tasi na ia ofuina. i le World Columbia Show i Chicago Suits, aemaise lava, na faia le mea na tupu i le taimi o le faʻafitauli tau tupe a le atunuʻu o le 1893. Faatasi ai ma le fuafuaina lelei ma le tausiga, o lavalava e mafai ona faʻasaoina ma ofuina soo. 'ofu pito i lalo e fai ma pupuni i le va o le suāu'u tino ma le palapala ma le tele o le ofusa.
O le masani o le mauaina o mea e te manaʻo ai ona toe faʻaaogaina, faʻasalalau ma fesuiaʻi ua taʻitaʻia ai le faʻasalalauga faʻa-Farani i faʻaputuga i le lalolagi atoa. E pei ona taʻua e Strastin, o le ofu o Queen Alexandra na faʻatau atu e le American Art Association ma Anderson Art Gallery i le 1937. , ma o le kuata o lea na faatauina mai e Erin Lewison ma faatau atu i le Metropolitan Museum of Art Na faavaeina le Aoga o Laei.
E ui lava o nei mea e itiiti le malamalama lautele i aso nei - fulu, fulu o manulele e le masani ai, ma e oʻo lava i uluulu e iai manuʻa taʻavale e manaʻomia - atonu tatou te talisapaia se mea faʻapitoa i le vaitau, toe faʻaaogaina masani, ma mea ua tatou taʻua nei o le faʻaosoina. le taugata o faiga Farani na latou faatauina, ua aumaia e tamaitai Amerika se pragmatism faapitoa i le maketi.ThredUp, Poshmark ma Le RealReal faamuamua faamoemoega, ma le loto i ai le faalauteleina o le olaga o lavalava e avea o se filifiliga tagata faatau amio ma mamao ese mai so o se stigma manaomia e mafai. i le faai'uga o le seneturi sefuluiva, i totonu o li'o fa'aagafesootai sili ona maualuga, e leai se mea e aveese ai le fa'ailoga.
Ina ia nono mai le taimi o le kamupani aʻoaʻoga faʻataʻitaʻiga Motif, o tamaitai Amerika na faʻatau faʻatau Farani i le faaiuga o le 19 seneturi na faʻalauiloaina se "faʻataʻitaʻiga lapotopoto lea na mamanuina ai le ofusa ma atinaʻe ma le isi faʻaoga i le mafaufau". Faʻatau maualuga. .
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s=n.getUidExt(e);s&&(c.ext=s)}afai(o.uids=[c],Object(r.isFn )(n .getEidExt)){var u=n.getEidExt(e);u&&(o.ext=u)}返回o}}return null}},897:function(e,t,n){e.exports=n( 898)},898:galuega(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,”__esModule”,{value: !0}),nd(t,”PBJS_USER_ID_OPTOUT_NAME”,function(){return w}), nd(t,”coreStorage”,function(){return x}),nd(t,”syncDelay”,function() {return _}),nd(t,”auctionDelay”,function(){return j}) ,t.setSubmoduleRegistry=function(e){U=e},t.setStoredValue=B,t.setStoredConsentData=L,t .findRootDomain=V,t.requestBidsHook=K,nd(t,”validateGdprEnforcement”,function() {return Y}),t.attachIdSystem=te,t.init=ne;var r=n(11),i= nn(r),o=n(3),a=n(10),c=nn (a),s=n(14),u=n(8),d=n(5),l=nn (d),f=n(9),p=n(15),b=n( 7),g=n(0),m=n(12),v=nn(m);函数y(e ,t){(null==t||t>e.umi)&&(t=e .umi);mo(var n=0,r=new Array(t);n1&&void 0!==参数[1] ?finauga[1]:noa 0,r=n?”.concat(e.name,”_”). concat(n):e.igoa;taumafai{afai(e.type===A)t= x.getCookie(r);seisi afai(e.type===I){var i=x.getDataFromLocalStorage(“ 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||(Object(g.logInfo)(“”.concat(E,” – 刷新”).concat(d.submodule.name)),Z(d,e,o,!0),$(d), h.umi&&N(h), mea(g.isFn)(d.callback)&&c.push(d))}} pu'e(e){se(e)}mulimuli{sf()}c.umi>0&&W(c ),t&&t()}else Object(g.logWarn)(“”.concat(E,” – gdpr 权限无效对于本地存储或 cookie，退出模块”))})}var Y=Object(fb)(“sync ”,galuega(e,t){return{userIdModules:e,hasValidated:t&&t.hasValidated}},”validateGdprEnforcement” );函数 Z(e,t,n,r){if(e.config.storage){var i,o=M(e.config.storage),a=!1;afai(“numera”==ituaiga e.config.storage.refreshInSeconds){var c=aso fou(M(e.config.storage,” mulimuli"));a=c&&Date.now()-c.getTime()>1e3*e.config.storage .refreshInSeconds}!o||a||r||!function(e,t){return null! =n&&n===q(t)}(0,t)?i=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,o):”function”==typeof e.submodule.extendId&&(i=e.submodule.extendId(e.config,t,o)),Object(g.isPlainObject)(i)&&(i. id&&(B(e,i.id),o=i.id),”galuega”==ituaiga i.callback&&(e.callback=i.callback)),o&&(e.idObj=e.submodule.decode( o,e.config))}ese pe afai(e.config.value)e.idObj=e.config.value;isi{var s=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,fa'aleaogaina 0);mea( g.isPlainObject)(s)&&(“galuega”==ituaiga s.callback&&(e.callback=s.callback),s.id&&(e.idObj= e.submodule.decode(s.id,e.config) ))}}函数$(e){for(var t=!1,n=0;nt?e:t}函数d(e,t,n ){!e.mu'i uta&&e.mu'i utaMataaa&&galuega(e,t,n) ,i){return t.top=e.shownThreshold&&!e.seen?(e.seen=!0,setTimeout(function(){e.trigger(“显示”,new r(“显示”,t))} ,15)):(!n||i1&&(h+=e(r,Math.floor(n/o),i-1,o)),h },this.getVerticallyVisiblePixels=f,this.getViewportHeight=function( ){return t.innerHeight||e.documentElement.clientHeight||e.body.clientHeight},this.getViewportWidth=function(){return t.innerWidth|| e.documentElement.clientWidth||e.body.clientWidth}, this.isElementNotHidden=u,this.isElementInViewport=function(n){var i=n.getBoundingClientRect();return i.top>=0&&i.left>=0&&i .bottom=o.length) 返回 {完成：真};返回 {完成： ， fa'ailoga:o[i++] };}, e: 函数 e(_e) { 抛出 _e;}, f: F };} throw new Type Error(“对不可迭代实例的迭代尝试无井。 ，非数组对象必须具有 [Symbol.iterator]() 方法。”);} var normal Completion = moni, didErr = sese, sese;foi { s: galuega s() { it = o [Symbol.iterator](); }, n: 函数 n() { var step = it.next();normalCompletion = step.done;返回步骤；}, e: 函数 e(_e2) { didErr = moni;错误 = _e2;}, f: galuega f() { taumafai { pe afai (!normalCompletion && it.return != null) it.return();} 最后 { if (didErr) throw err;} } };} function _unsupportedIterableToArray(o, minLen) { afai (! o) toe fo'i;afai (ituaiga o === " manoa") toe fo'i _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);var n = Object.prototype.toString.call(o).slice(8, -1);afai (n == = “对象” && o.fausiaina) n = o.constructor.name;afai (n === “Map” ||n === “Set”) toe faafoi Array.from(o);afai (n === “参数” || /^(?:Ui|I)nt(?:8|16|32)(?:Clamped )?Array$/.test(n)) return _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);} 函数 _arrayLikeToArray(arr, len) { afai (len == null || len > arr.length) len = arr.length;mo ( var i = 0, arr2 = fou Array(len);i
Taimi meli: Ian-19-2022